• Start by removing weeds.
• Next add a good compost on top of the ground. A 2 cubic ft. bag will cover approximately 100 square feet.
• Turn over the ground with a shovel or rototiller. You may skip this step if the area is exceptionally large.
• Rake out the area, removing any weeds or dirt clods. Sprinkle the seed evenly and rake lightly so that the seed is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep.
• Water well so the ground is moist but not soggy.

Want a big bang for your gardening buck? Add ornamental ranunculus to your garden. These cultivars are prized for their large, brightly colored flowers; in fact, ranunculus provide longer lasting color than any other spring flowering bulb. Each large-sized tuberous root will give as many as fifty to seventy-five blooms.

Ranunculus emerge in a mound of grass green leaves about 6 to 12 inches across and grow from 12 to 18 inches high. Flowers bloom from spring through July, depending upon the climate, and are made of dozens of paper-thin petals in bright, two-toned picotee, gold, pastel mix, pink, red, rose, salmon, sunset orange, white, and yellow. Blooms last up to six weeks.

Although these flowers may be deceptively delicate in appearance, ranunculus are actually frost-hardy cool-season perennials. They prefer mild winters and long, cool spring temperatures. The roots can tolerate soil temperatures to 10° F, while growing plants can handle temperatures below 20° F for several hours.

Begin to plant in September through November, choosing a spot in full sun where ranunculus haven't grown for three or four years. (If sprinklers keep the bed soggy, pre-sprout the tubers in flats of damp sand; as soon as the roots emerge, plant them in the bed.) Cultivate the soil deeply, adding organic soil amendment, bone meal, and flower fertilizer according to package directions. Water the bed and let it settle overnight.

Toss the tubers in drifts onto the bed. Rearrange them slightly so they're approximately 6 inches apart. Plant each octopus-like tuber where it fell, making sure the points face down. Cover them with 1 1/2 inches of soil in heavy ground or 2 inches in light, sandy soil.

Soak the bed deeply. Except in dry, sandy soil or very dry weather, don't water again until green growth shows. Then, if rains are mere sprinkles, water often enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy. The tubers can rot if they're soaked prior to planting or if they're planted in soil that stays soggy wet.

Protect the sprouts from birds with wire or plastic garden netting until they're up about 4 inches.

If you miss the fall planting, you can also start ranunculus plants indoors in early spring for transplanting in the garden in April. Place under grow lights or in a south or west facing window, with temperatures in the mid 50s. In early spring, gradually acclimate plants to outdoors by putting them out for more time each day (bring them in at night). Plant outdoors in late April in zones 6 and 7, and the end of May in zones 4 and 5. Spring-planted ranunculus will bloom in June.

The name Ranunculus literally means "little frog." This probably refers to many species being found near water, like frogs. Ranunculus is a large genus or flower family of about 400 species of plants, including buttercups, spearworts and water crowfoots.

By Tamara Galbraith

Fall is the time to trim back perennials...and that includes herbs. Annual herbs can be harvested until frost, while perennial herbs can be clipped up until about one month before your first frost date.

Freezing is one of the easiest methods to preserve herbs, and if you generally use herbs for soups and sauces, the ice cube method is great. Rinse your herbs in cold water, shake off the excess, chop, and place a teaspoon of herbs in each water-filled cube space and freeze. Pop the cubes out and put them in plastic bags; you can then take a cube from the freezer as you need it, and toss the whole thing into your soup or sauce. Another method for freezing herbs for later culinary use is to spread the herbs loosely onto a cookie sheet, freeze, then transfer the herbs into a large plastic bag and seal. Do not re-freeze herbs after thawing.

Drying is the traditional method of herb preservation. If the herbs are clean, do not wet them. Otherwise, rinse dust and dirt from the foliage, shake off the excess water, and spread the herbs out on paper towels until dry. Remove any dead or damaged foliage, then tie the stems into small bundles with twine, string or even decorative ribbon and hang them upside down in a warm, dry, airy place out of the sun. Be sure to make small, loose bundles and allow for good air circulation around each bunch.

You can zap your herbs in the microwave, too. Lay a single layer of clean, dry leaves between dry paper towels and place them in the microwave for 1 to 2 minutes on high power, paying attention to your own microwave's wattage and tendencies. Let the leaves cool. If they are not brittle, reheat for 30 seconds and retest. Repeat as needed.

Herbs are sufficiently dry when they are brittle and crumble easily. When the leaves are dry, separate them from their stems and store in glass spice jars with tight-fitting lids, then keep the jars in a cool, dry place away from sunlight, moisture, and heat. To preserve full flavor, avoid crushing the leaves until you are ready to use them. Many herbs will retain their flavor for over a year...when it'll be time to harvest next year's herbs.

How do I get sweeter fruit on my fruit trees?

Answer:

First, fruit trees need a minimum of at least half a day of sunlight each day during the growing season. The more sun, the sweeter your fruit will be. If your trees are in a bad location, consider transplanting when they are dormant in winter.

That said, many times the fruits on trees are not as sweet as they could be, because the soil they are planted in is lacking phosphorus and potash. It is important to apply a 0-10-10 fertilizer to the soil around your trees in November and again in January to provide these vital nutrients.

During the growing season, feed once after the blooms are finished, again in June and one more time in September with a complete fruit tree food. Make sure not to overwater, either. Allow the soil to dry out a little between waterings.

Established fruit trees respond best to deep and infrequent watering.

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